The James Beard House: A Gastronomic Institution
“I hope they have grilled chicken, vegetables and lots of wine.”
Being the “foodie” that I am, these thoughts immediately raced through my mind when I was invited to the August 11th dinner at the James Beard House. I immediately logged onto their website and searched for the menu, hoping to find something that I’d actually eat. After scanning it and realizing I might be eating air, I responded to my invitee to let him know about my liquid dinner plans.
My coworker scorned my unrefined palate. “It’s James Beard! Be adventurous—it is just a tasting. You’re not being forced to eat liver for the next month of your life!”
After remembering James Beard Foundation’s trail-blazing stature in the culinary world, I tuned up my stomach of steel and headed over to the James Beard House at 167 West 12th Street for “Del Frisco’s Divine Wine Dinner” featuring a Creole-inspired menu that reflects the famed restaurant’s Southern Louisiana roots. I was transported to the 1940’s through the rustic entrance-way and checked in with the bubbly host who sent me to the spacious backyard garden for the cocktail reception; this walkway led me through the delectable kitchen where Del Frisco’s Executive Chef, Thomas Dritsas, and his crew were hard at work. My mouth began watering; that’s when I decided to be bold and daring—I’d sample everything (almost) on the menu!
I sauntered out onto the sweltering patio and grabbed a glass of the Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut NV where I was also presented with the juicy gulf shrimp Bloody Mary Shooters with Creole tomato jelly and horseradish foam. The servers came around for the next 45 minutes with other hors d’oeuvres, including the meaty seared lamb crepinette with kalamata olives, ivory lentils and eggplant and the smooth, truffled fingerling potato pierogi with Vidalia onion-port jam.
We were summoned into the dining room at 7:45 to be seated for our five course dinner. My group had—in my opinion—the best seat in the house, in James’ elevated bedroom that was equipped with a ceiling mirror. After cracking a few jokes about Mr. Beard’s bedroom antics, Del Frisco’s Wine Director, David O’Day, began the wine presentation. I happily accepted this downward spiral into a food and wine coma as I took my first sip of Domaine Weinbach Cuvée Théo Gewürztraminer.
The first course, the smoked crawfish cake with rémoulade and baby chicory salad, was delivered and I cautiously took a bite—impressive! It had just the right touch of spice without allowing the bite to overpower the overall flavor. Who would’ve guessed? I was a fan. With entrée number one down, I bravely anticipated the remaining four courses as I took a sip of wine number two, a rich and buttery Etienne Sauzet 1er Cru La Garenne Puligny-Montrachet. It quickly became a table favorite. In a matter of minutes the fresh, ideally-textured, pan-seared redfish fillet with Peruvian potato gnocchi, sprout leaves and white bordelaise arrived. It was soon followed by the country-style pulled duck terrine with toasted pistachios, unctuous Creole mustard oil, tangy minus eight vinegar syrup and a cherry popover. I mistook the popover for the duck and accidentally sunk my teeth directly into the rich and peppery third-course (duck has never been one of my favorites), which was complimented by the perfectly paired, Kosta Browne Amber Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir.
As the evening progressed, the table became more boisterous as the wine pours increased in heaviness. The star of the show, the American Wagyu prime rib steak with slow-braised short ribs, Maine lobster smoked corn grits, roasted wild mushrooms and jus, made its way into the dining room. This tender, smoky and earthy cut of beef quieted our group as they savored every delicious morsel and sipped on a spicy, 2005 Robert Foley Vineyards Claret.
Who left room for dessert? I do not possess a sweet tooth, but this wino was ready for the next round of drinks. Enter the Alois Kracher No. 7 Trockenbeerenauslese Grand Cuvée—our final wine of the evening—what a crowd-pleaser! This sacchariferous, aromatic, fruity and acidic wine accentuated the sweetness of the taste bud-tickling doberge beignets with lemon Creole cream and blackberry gastrique. As I dished out the remainder of my dessert to my fellow diners, I “borrowed” the bottle of wine from the server and filled myself up—and everyone at my table.
When the event came to a close I was shocked to discover that we had spent nearly four hours at the James Beard House. I walked into this handsome, classic townhouse on one of my favorite, partially tree-lined streets in NYC as a little bit of a skeptic and walked out a convert. It was a wonderful experience—even for a faux-foodie—and I met some really great people. All in all, I give it “two, very enthusiastic thumbs up!”
